Thursday, August 20, 2009

I'll get ya, back in Singapore

I have found out that there ain't no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them. ~Mark Twain

All in all, I would call my trip to Tioman Island, Malaysia a success. But, of course, the best way to start a story is at the beginning:

I got word of a trip to Malaysia about a day before they left. Having missed the first round of Tioman trips the weekend before, I hopped on this quickly; luckily I had completed all my university visa paperwork that day. After a few calls and packing my swimsuit, I woke up early on Wednesday to join the group. We caught a bus, then a train, then another bus that crosses over the bridge to Malaysia. The Malaysian bus depot was much more active than the Singaporean side: hawkers were waiting literally right outside the doors of the bus to sell us tickets to destinations all over Malaysia. My nine travel mates and I were a bit confused, but luckily the trip organizer was wise enough to haggle with the vendors and get us a fair deal. That was our first lesson, haggle for everything in Malaysia; the citizens know to overcharge any traveler hoping they will not know better.A two hour ride across Malaysia later, we arrived in Mersing and attempted to find tickets onto the ferry boat to the island. After some haggling for a great deal for accommodation for ten and a run to catch the last ferry of the day, we were on a nausea-inducing ride across the South China Sea to Tioman Island. Once arriving we boarded our pre-arranged 4-wheelers which took us over the steep, yet paved road across the island to the isolated village of Juara. After 3 buses, a train, a ferry, and a ride in a SUV, we had finally arrived.

The next morning I suggested some kayaking and snorkeling. We got some gear and were off. Despite ‘suggestions’ of staying within the cove, I steered my group out beyond the rocks to find that other beach I saw on the map. The weaker paddlers feel behind and my experienced kayak-mate and I blazed ahead, admiring the beautiful island and staying clear of the rocky shore. We lost sight of the others, and assuming they had turned back towards the beach, continued to an isolated rocky shore about a mile from the village. We made a great deal out of beaching the kayak and put our snorkel gear to use. The reef was beautiful, but dying, a reminder of what global warming is doing to reefs across the globe.

After a few hours, we notice a large boat in the distance. Then came a small rubber speedboat. Admittedly my first thoughts were of pirates, and after noticing one of my companions, I thought he had led them to us to be kidnapped. But it was only to inform us that the other kayaks had sunk, everyone had been rescued by the Malaysian Coast Guard, and we were to leave the reef before the tide came in. They kindly took us to their main ship and motored us back to the main beach with our many thanks; then began the day-long process of retrieving the kayaks from the bottom of the bay. My kayak partner and I, being the strongest swimmers, volunteered to snorkel to a depth of 20 feet to hook the kayaks with the anchor of a hired fisherman in order to bring the supposedly unsinkable boat to the surface. All this with a group that was tearing out their hair at the thought of paying for the lost kayak and brainstorming on how to skip out on the bill for the lost snorkel and mask. They didn’t realize this friendly village was full of people who all knew each other, and an un-paid debt would trap us on the island without a ride back to the mainland ferry, but by the end of the trip it was thankfully resolved.

Next, a girl of the group went to visit the village without telling anyone where she was going or how long she would be. When nightfall approached, the group became spooked and we fanned out across this village of three-hundred people, calling her name, fearing that she was in trouble. After an hour or two, she was found miles away in a restaurant.

At this point I had a feeling this trip wasn’t going to be as adventurous as I hoped; many of my companions were more fascinated by the cheap beer than the beautiful jungle locale. Most acted like typical tourists: arriving without an appreciation of the place or people, taking advantage of the local businesses, and trying to avoid the responsibility as things went south. Next time I hope to travel with a more mature and trail-blazing group.

The next day was spent on some much needed relaxation, along with a trip to a sea turtle conservatory and a failed trek to a jungle waterfall (it was getting dark before we got there). After some fire dancing and bonfires at the beach bar, we were driven the next morning across the same route back to the mainland ferry dock. A ferry, bus, another bus, yet another bus, and train, and a final bus later, I was back home. Being my first travels from Singapore, I’ve learned a couple lessons, but not-withstanding, the sojourn was fun, the island was beautiful, and the time will be remembered for a while to come.

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